3 Reasons to try Antica Taverna

Being the shortest in my family, I have developed the ridiculous habit of standing on tip toes in all family pictures.

Being the shortest in my family, I have developed the ridiculous habit of standing on tip toes in all family pictures.

As you may have heard, we have all the guests right now.  Instead of trying an old standby, Antica Enoteca, we decided to branch out to a different restaurant also named Antica.  This actually isn’t too strange.  I’ve noticed that Italy is swimming with Antica Ristorantes, Enotecas, and Cafes.

Unlike some other restaurants I’ve covered, Antica Taverna is decidedly downtown.  The restaurant is only a few blocks from Piazza Navona, but far enough away to feel like you’ve one-upped the tourists.

It also has a decidedly Italian feel.  Like what you think of when you envision a very stereotypical restaurant.  Red checkered tablecloths.  Murals involving grapes.  You may want to discount my opinion because I have a high tolerance for kitsch, but I thought it was charming and cozy.

1) Prosecco while you wait

Even though we (read James) made a reservation, we had to wait a few minutes for our table.  To pass the time, we all received glasses of prosecco.  It wasn’t the best prosecco and they weren’t the biggest pours, but I adore prosecco and I appreciated the gesture.  It did feel fancy standing around and sipping while perusing the menu chalkboard.

Yes, yes, wine not prosecco, you get the idea.

Yes, yes, wine not prosecco pictured, but you get the idea.

2) Crazy good eggplant parmigiana

All of our food was good.  The eggplant parmigiana was excellent.  Best I’ve ever had.  Full stop.

GET THIS.  I had to wrestle the fork from  James to get a picture.

GET THIS. I had to wrestle the fork from James to get a picture.

It came in its own bubbly ramekin.  The dish was simultaneously greasy and light, if you can picture such a thing.  The grease was not in a why-did-I-eat-that-second-cheeseburger way, but ooo, oily from real olive oil and tasty cheese.  The eggplant, tomatoes, and basil all made the dish taste fresh in an I-can-almost-consider-this-healthy way, until you remember all the gooey cheese.

If I come again, we will skip any pasta and just order one eggplant parm per person.  Easy peasy, the end.

Fried cod, fiori di zucca, and mozzarella con prosciutto

Fried cod, fiori di zucca, and mozzarella con prosciutto

These pastas are good, but they only wish they could be the eggplant parmigiana.

These pastas are good, but they only wish they could be the eggplant parmigiana.

3) Stupid cheap

For just over 30 euro per person, we had two bottles of house wine, antipasti, primi, secondi, dessert, limoncello, and coffee.  A few dishes were shared, but STILL.  If you’d ever like the full courses experience without breaking the bank, Antica Taverna has you covered.  Of course, my bill will be even cheaper next time because I will just have eggplant parm and wine, squeezing in some dolce if I can.  The pear and chocolate tart was pretty sensational.

The tiramisu was also quite tasty for those of you into that sort of thing.  I know, I am the worst.

The tiramisu was also quite tasty for those of you into that sort of thing. I know, I am the worst.

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Antica Taverna
via Monte Giordano 12
(+39) 0668801053
Open daily from noon to midnight
Reservation form on website

3 Gardens Outside Rome That Will Make You Feel Like a Royal

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I have garden radar.  I don’t enjoy weeding or watering or really any sort of plant maintenance, but I am always on the lookout for gardens.  I blame my mom.  Did I ever tell you my mom went back to college?  That’s right.  More than 25 years after the first time around, my mom went back and got her degree in horticulture.  She always had a green thumb, but now she can drop some serious plant knowledge.  So I’m always hunting for a garden she might enjoy.

This came in handy for awhile.

I have also grown to appreciate gardens more because of the adorable weirdos.  Those two are bad at museums, bad at guided tours, bad at staying quiet in churches . . .  You get the picture.  But they are good at running around outside.  Enter gardens.  The adults get to look at pretty stuff and history, but the kids don’t feel stifled.  And admission for the kids is usually free!  Win win win.  (This is why we have not yet ventured to the Garden of Ninfa.  Guided tours only.  Eep.  Someday.)

This list isn’t unconditionally kid-friendly because 2/3 have some serious anti-stroller steps, but here are three stunning formal gardens we have really loved.  These gardens will make you feel fancy even while wearing a baby and herding a toddler.

1) If you don’t have a car, try Villa d’Este in Tivoli

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What do you do when exiled from Rome?  Why post up at your fancy fountain palace, of course.  Cardinal Ippolito d’Este had his palace and gardens built in the 1550s, designed by the architect Pirro Ligorio.  (Heads up, this name comes up again.)

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The water organ that plays every two hours

These gardens go down a hillside (hence the steps) and feature about eleventy billion amazing fountains.  These fountains were originally all gravity-powered; now only two jets of the largest fountain are electric.  Whenever I fall into the trap of thinking that people who lived before us somehow thought less than modern man, I remember things like this.  Or basically just look around Rome.  Or think of Leonardo da Vinci.  You get what I mean.

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Villa d’Este is a short bus trip from Rome.  (Tivoli is 18 miles east of Rome.)  While in Tivoli, you could also make a stop at Hadrian’s Villa, but that is a little trickier by bus.  If you can’t stop at Hadrian’s Villa, just look around Villa d’Este.  Hadrian’s Villa provided much of the raw material used to create the fantastical fountain fun.

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Villa d’Este is closed on Mondays.  There is a restaurant, but it was closed during our February visit.  But fear not; Villa d’Este is in the middle of historic Tivoli where you will find plenty to eat.  The town is very adorable and worth a look around.  If you could only do one day trip from Rome, I’d recommend some combination of Villa d’Este/Tivoli/Hadrian’s Villa over Orvieto.  Also, if you visit in late summer, check to see if the gardens are offering evening fountain shows.

2) If you’d like a Villa d’Este experience with fewer tourists, try Villa Lante in Bagnaia (near Viterbo)

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If you visit Villa Lante after Villa d’Este, you will get a distinct feeling of deja vu.  These gardens, featuring flowing fountains and cascading water, were inspired by Villa d’Este.  Pirro Ligorio (remember him?) consulted on their design.

These gardens also necessitate steps to reach the varied levels, but the steps are not as intimidating in number or steepness as their Villa d’Este counterparts.

Frescoes

Frescoes

I mean, shut up, right?

I mean, shut up, right?

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Pegasus fountain

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Tree hugger

Tree hugger

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Villa Lante is closed Mondays.  No food options inside, but tiny Bagnaia has you covered.  (We ate at Il Borgo on the main piazza.)  Don’t skip a stroll around town.  I think I enjoyed the quiet streets almost as much as the garden.  Almost.

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3) If you adore Versailles and don’t mind a side of chaos, try Reggia di Caserta

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This Bourbon Royal Palace, built in the 1750s, has a distinctly Versailles vibe.  Probably because of the palace + very long formal gardens situation.

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This photo below doesn’t really do it justice.  Looking straight out, you have the path out to the English gardens.  That white bit on the mountain is actually a waterfall.  And those trees on both sides are woods that are also part of the sight.

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We sprung for a horse-drawn carriage ride.  It was not cheap (50 euro for about 30 minutes), but I’m glad we did it.  There is just so much ground to cover!  MILES!  This way we actually got to see some of it.  They also have bike rentals.  If you are not accompanied by two kids under age three, this seems to be the way to go.  The walk to the gardens is deceptively long.  We did see plenty of people walking, but it looked like a very pleasant biking opportunity.

Carriage selfie

Carriage selfie

Your 12 euro (kids free!) gets you not only into the ridiculous gardens, but also the redonkulous palace.  After the initial grand staircase, the palace was very stroller-friendly.  I’m not sure why, but we had much more success on this one than we did at the Residenz in Munich.

The palace is not stuffed with furniture–although there is some–but your eye will find plenty to gawk at with the incredibly ornate rooms.  They also have a nativity scene that is bigger than my kitchen.

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I want that

I want that

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Throne Room

Throne Room

Reggia di Caserta is closed Tuesdays.  There is a restaurant/bar inside.  This would be a great garden for a picnic.

But wait, you ask, why the side of chaos?  Reggia di Caserta is the farthest garden from Rome on this list; it will take you, traffic permitting, a little over two hours to get there.  It is also south of Rome, really more of a day trip from Naples than Rome.

My experience with southern Italy is fairly limited so far, but I will agree that Italy “intensifies” as you head farther south.  For example, I don’t think we saw a single working traffic light in the town of Caserta.  I do think I saw more hand gestures during a mile long drive through town than I have during months in Rome.  Everything worked out.  I just wanted to give you a heads up that you might be encountering something less than the well-oiled machinery and efficiency of Rome on your trip.  (SNORT.)

Now go forth and strut in the fancypants garden of your choice.  Soundtrack optional.

P.S.  Want a slightly less formal garden?  Check out the Monster Garden in Bomarzo for another day trip option.

Spring in Rome

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Ah, spring.  That magical time of the year when Romans start to shed their puffy coats and wear only sweaters, jackets, and scarves.

I wish I was joking.  Even though it has been in the 60s and 70s for quite awhile, and is now getting downright hot, Romans must dress the season and not the weather.  On the fashion front, I’m seeing some leg.  Not BARE leg, mind you.  That would be crazy.  But legs covered in tights, appearing under skirts or shorts.  Sometimes an unexposed ankle.  Meanwhile, I feel like I have once again missed jacket weather.  Romans are rocking fabulous layers of cardigans and leather jackets, but I’m usually too hot to even keep my scarf on.

Everything is in bloom.  It is beautiful, but the pollen is brutal.  I don’t usually have seasonal allergy issues, but even I’ve had some issues.  Poor James is doubling (and tripling) down on allergy relief.

I’m also seeing more blooms indoors.  Henry’s school seems to have fresh bouquets every time we go.

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As you would expect, Holy Week was a big deal here.  Fun fact: because of a lack of palm trees in the region, some churches use olive branches instead of palms.  We escaped the crowds on Easter, but friends who went to mass at St. Peter’s all stated that it was wet and cold this year.

Olive branches

Olive branches

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Sizable procession we saw on Palm Sunday

Instead of chocolate Easter bunnies, stores filled up with giant chocolate eggs that would make the FDA crazier than the usual Kinder Surprise eggs.  You could get any themed egg you wanted.  Peppa Pig.  Spiderman.  Frozen.  We settled on matchbox cars for the boys, which were a hit.  I “helped” Mac eat his.

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Our attempt to dye brown eggs was much more successful than I thought.  Dying eggs with a toddler, however . . . Let’s just say that this may be an outdoor activity in the future.

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We did get to attend an Easter egg hunt.  Henry embraced the egg hunt, taking off on his own without any parental assistance.  He was derailed in his quest for eggs once he realized there was candy inside the eggs.  Like he sat down immediately and took serious persuasion to complete his hunting before indulging.  Thankfully, the hunt had a five egg limit because I don’t think I could have separated him from the candy if I tried.

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Does it feel like spring where you are?  Been up to any springtime fun?

P.S.  Our Fall in Rome and Christmas in Rome.

P.P.S.  Banana Republic is having a 40% off sale through today.  The Mom Edit has her top picks up.

3 Things I Will Never Get Used to in Rome

After more than half a year, we are finally feeling more settled.  Some things I’ll never really get used to (cough traffic cough), but others don’t phase me anymore.  During her visit, I asked my sister to point out things that strike her as strange just to remember how different things can be here.  Oh, it isn’t normal to have to walk in traffic to avoid parked cars on the sidewalk?  Good to know.  Carry on.

But I think no matter how long we stay, there are some things I will never get used to.  Such as . . .

1) Ornamental Citrus

That Mediterranean climate means people have citrus trees just hanging out.  In courtyards.  On balconies.  YEAR ROUND.

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Not only is it there, but the fruit is huge.  I swear I’ve seen lemons as big as my head at Villa Borghese.

And maybe some of the fruit is eaten, but it really is largely ornamental.  I will never get used to perfectly good blood oranges rotting on the sidewalk.

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Not plucked off the sidewalk

2) Vintage Cars

Remember how 20 years ago, you could play punch buggy (NO PUNCH BACK) because there were actual OG VW Beetles on the street?  Now I feel like you see one every now and then, but it is rare indeed.

Not the case here.  Granted these cars are in the minority, but on a daily basis I see a Fiat or Mini Cooper that is at least 50 years old.  These cars aren’t just parked in driveways (haha, driveways, I know, good one); they are being driven around all over town.  Wild.

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3) Italian Names

I clock some serious hours at the playground.  If you’ve spent time with your children at a playground, you know that a not insignificant portion is spent calling the kids’ names.  Henry!  Not so far!  Mac!  Don’t eat that rock!  Henry!  You have 50 cars of your own; please don’t take his!!  You get the picture.

At least I’m not the only one.  Lorenzo!  Lucrezia!  Guido!  Bianca!  Michelangelo!  Oh, the names.  So beautiful.  But so different.  The names are always a jarring reminder that we are a long ways from home.

 

ICYMI: Finishing Out Food Week

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Does it get more Italian than this?

On the blog:

To kick off food week, I shared about my love/hate/love relationship with food.  Also, some deets on the Mercato Esquilino in there.

Breakfast is, without a doubt, our most consistently paleo meal of the day.  Here is our version of a “sexy” paleo breakfast.

And I talked about one of my favorite restaurants in Rome, a decidedly non-paleo place.  #pastaporn

On the internets:

“But the thing is — it’s not good for children to have infinitely patient, saintly mothers, because the world is not infinitely patient and saintly. . . . It’s good for kids to recognize the incipient stages of someone losing their shit.”  Interesting thoughts.

I need to try this immediately.  Mayo, who knew?

Ever planned a girls’ get together of any kind?  This podcast will make you snort your coffee.  Hey Ladies . . . (Yeah, for now, continuing with podcasting.  Listening anyways.  No immediate plans to launch a Roman Reboot podcast.)

Check out this doodle diary of a new mom.  Yup.

Coming up:

My sis, BIL, and my absolutely adorbs niece are here!  We’ll be trying to see as much as we can with three kids under three.  At least the weather seems to be cooperating.  Hope you have a good one!

My favorite restaurant, every other time: Antica Enoteca

Ah, Antica Enoteca.  I just can’t quit you.  Things are so good.  And then they are meh.  But then you come around again.  It’s really every other time.

#1  My first trip, I was skeptical.  We sat outside, right beside an American couple, where duder asked for ice I swear four different times.  I’m not anti-tourist and definitely not anti-‘Merican, but I do use this as a proxy for restaurant expectation.  But then the pasta came.  I got carciofi with guanciale (artichoke with pork cheek) and James did his usual amatriciana.

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Best pasta I’ve had yet in Rome.  Full stop.  Mic drop.

#2  Our friends came into town after Christmas.  Other friends here graciously agreed to babysit.  W00t!  Big night out.  Instead of trying somewhere new, I decided to play it safe and revisit a sure thing.  See, here, you can easily get an amazing meal, but it is also easy to get a meh meal.

Antica was packed!  Luckily, we had a reservation, but we still had to wait a bit.  This was no hardship because I discovered Antica has London Pride on tap.  As someone who is always on the hunt for hops, this was a pretty awesome pre-dinner drink.  Also, the bar is very cool looking, like too cool for me to be hanging out there, and it was big night out w00t!

Once we sat, I ordered the same pasta.  This was admittedly a risky strategy.  Either you know you are getting something great or you are getting something that can never live up to the memory.  Sadly, my experience was the latter.  It was definitely good.  Our friends liked their food.  But it was not the best pasta I’ve had in Rome.  Womp womp.

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#3  Undeterred by the minor setback, we took my mom during her visit in February.  I learned my lesson and stayed away from the carciofi/guanciale masterpiece of my memories.  But my mom didn’t.  She let me try hers.  Best pasta ever again!  I was a little remorseful, but I consoled myself with my gnocchi that was also stupid good.

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#4  Feeling uncreative and thinking pasta plus a pre-dinner London Pride sounded like a good idea, James and I ended up back at Antica on a date night.  This time the experience was actually kind of bad.  They were out of London Pride, but they didn’t mention that until they brought a substitute.  He offered to swap it if we didn’t like it, but not that helpful . . .  The service was really slow.  And when we got our pasta, it was just ok.  Better than what I can make at home, but nothing to write home about.  Boo.

So there you have it.  I’m hesitant to give you a glowing recommendation because I just don’t know which Antica you will get.  Will it be the pasta dreams are made of or just an average plate of blah?

I can say that Antica has a solid wine-by-the glass selection and some very good charcuterie.  Even if you don’t opt to try the pasta, I’d definitely suggest grabbing a seat and a snack at the bar.  If you are feeling burnt out on Italian wine, you could even get a London Pride.  Most of the time.

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Antica Enoteca
http://www.anticaenoteca.com
Via della Croce, 76/b Roma
06/6790896

What makes your favorite restaurant your fave?  Would you forgive them for some uneven quality issues or are they dead to you forever?

You can’t fight the food

It is food week here on Roman Reboot!  (You know, until I change my mind or get overwhelmed and stop posting.)  But until then, let’s talk about one of my favorite things.  FOOD.

Something that continues to surprise me about my new gig is how often I think about food.  It’s all the time.

I am always purchasing food.  Some of it is because I can only fit so much under the stroller.  Some of it is because I just can’t seem to meal plan.  But it is always something.  When we have enough veggies, we are running low on meats.  When we have enough meats, we are running low on eggs and yogurt.  When we have enough eggs and yogurt, we are running low on canned tomatoes and olive oil.  It is always something.

On the home front, I think about food constantly.  What am I going to make for dinner?  Will there be leftovers for lunch?  If no, what am I going to make for lunch?  What snack can Mac eat?  If I use the ground beef for chili, what should I do with the rest of the onions?

Once I pick a location for a Saturday adventure, the next thing I start researching is food.  Where can we find food?  What time does the restaurant open?  Do I need to bring food?  How much food?

They say the army moves on its stomach.  I say the family moves on its stomach.  There is no faster way to ruin a fun time than to wait too long to eat and have everyone dissolving into cranky puddles of messes.  And I don’t just mean the kids.

I used to spend lots of time thinking about food, but it was more fun.  Less utilitarian.  Ooo, which sandwich place should I walk to for lunch?  Which restaurant should James and I hit next?  Where should we order takeout from this evening?  Now I am a grinder cook.  You need dinner in 20 minutes using only bananas, bean sprouts, and chicken broth?  I can do that.

I recently read Shauna Niequist’s Bread & Wine.   I saw bits of myself in this book, and not just because our children coincidentally have the same names.  I too ran a marathon when I didn’t ever think I’d be able to.  She talks about being on a punishing book tour, eating a club sandwich from room service at the end of the day, and needing that sandwich more than she knew anyone should ever need a sandwich.  This reminded me of some dark moments from biglaw where I sat clutching a blondie or some sushi and thinking this food was the only thing keeping me from crying.  Niequist’s stories are beautiful and real and un-put-downable.  In case not your thing, a heads up that she does talk about her faith, but it is very organic.  I’d definitely recommend the book.

Mostly though, I found another lover of food.  Niequist is definitely that.  She says it took her years to be comfortable with her love of food, but now she is not afraid to own it.  She gives people the gift of hospitality, coming together over a delicious meal and knowing they are loved.

I love eating delicious food.  I also quite enjoy hosting.  But somehow I haven’t been willing to put in the work to make this happen.

I’m trying to choose my words carefully here because I am worried about unintentionally offending.  This is just me and my hangups here.  In my 20s, I’d say I valued my career more than homemaking.  It wasn’t that I didn’t value taking time at home.  It just somehow felt like something I shouldn’t be spending time on, at least not as much as I should be focusing on work things.  No, no, I can’t mess with making stock from scratch; I’m much too busy and important.  I did have time.  But with all the narrative on outsourcing, being efficient, and maximizing all of your time, spending more time in the kitchen was not something I was trying to do.

Now, I usually crank out three meals a day.*  This can be a chore.  Something to be endured.  Or it can be an opportunity to be creative.  To try something new.  Food is a basic need.  A a mom, I’ve been worried about their intake levels from day one.  Why not show them love through tasty and healthy meals?

And that busy busy busy narrative just doesn’t hold water here.  That is one of the things I wanted for our time in Rome.  Opportunities to slow down.  To take time to breathe.  To savor the day to day.

This is a market culture.  I can stroll a few blocks and pick out fresh veggies, meats, fish, cheese, and bread.  Granted, some errands can be tough with both kids, but we do have the time to explore.   To find out which vendor has the best tomatoes.  To ask for a cheese recommendation.  To slowly learn Italian while trying to communicate how ripe I’d like my avocados.  I still hit the grocery store, but I’m trying to make it to the market each week as well.  And when I’m there, I’m trying to hit new vendors and stands.

I’m also branching out to new markets.  A few weeks ago we made it to the Esquilino Market, also known as the Asian market, near Termini.  WHOA.  This place is HUGE.  The market has clothing and other durables, but the real show is the food.  Esquilino has, by far, the biggest selection of seafood I’ve found in the city.  They also have vats of fresh spices.  Noodles and sauces.  And other things I never thought of as exotic until we moved here, like cilantro, bean sprouts, and jalapeno peppers.  We stocked up on those and some candied ginger and dried pineapple.  I didn’t price out every item, but many things seemed cheaper than markets by us.  For example, avocados seem to be about half of what I usually pay.

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When we brought our precious cargo home, I wanted to take some time.  Make something special.  Nowadays, thankfully, if you can internet you can cook.  I love to punch in a few of the ingredients I have and see what Dr. Google recommends.

For our “exotic” treasures, I made lemon cilantro roast chicken and a roasted sweet potato and black bean salad.  They both involved busting out the food processor, but it really wasn’t hard.  I also made a darn tasty pork fried rice and a faux pho that turned out better than expected.

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I’ve been using Niequist for inspiration as well.  Her book is packed with tasty recipes.  So far I’ve tried her breakfast cookies, cheese-stuffed dates, mini mac and cheese, maple balsamic pork, and risotto.  Ah, the risotto.  You really can do anything with it.  I’ve made sausage and mushroom, lemon and pea, and strawberry balsamic.

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I’ll never be a precise cook.  (This is why James is leery of any of the rare times that I bake.)  I don’t follow recipes exactly.  But there is a lot of inspiration to be had, both from the internets and the amazing seasonal food here.  So I’m trying.  There could even be cooking classes in my future.  I’m committed to enjoying food again.  There will be fails.  But I will try.

(Unless you are one of the many house guests coming over the next few weeks.  In that case, please keep all of your expectations as low as possible.  Thank you in advance.)

*Please don’t think I’m cracking on James.  About this anyway.  🙂  He was primary on food for years, and he does plenty else around the house.  The current division of labor just has me as primary cook.

Are you in a slump or have you been food inspired these days?  Any tasty recipes or techniques to pass on?

Carnival: definitely a thing here

A few weeks before Ash Wednesday, I noticed some confetti scattered around the playground at Villa Borghese.  Cool, I thought, some kid must of had a birthday party.  Then I started noticing it at other playgrounds.  And on the streets.  And basically everywhere.  You can see where this is going . . .

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Turns out, this was all Carnival, or Carnevale here, related.  It felt like a secret society at times.  You don’t know when or where, but at some appointed time Italians will assemble and throw confetti (coriandoli) and silly string at each other.

We witnessed this on a trip to Tivoli.  The whole town was streaming toward the main piazza, as if drawn by a magnetic force.  Unfortunately, we were two Cheerios from full kid meltdown and needed food STAT so we couldn’t stick around to observe.  But when we emerged from lunch, it looked like a confetti bomb had gone off.  Save a few stragglers and the balloon vendor, the square was deserted.  (Oh, right, balloons and inflatable objects also seem integral to the secret fun.)

In addition to confetti, silly string, and balloons, Carnevale means dress up.  The toy store around the corner trotted out all the costumes you didn’t see at Halloween.  I dropped Henry at school the Thursday before Ash Wednesday and missed the dress up day memo.  In my defense, it was early days on school.  Also, NO ONE told me.  Everyone just seems to know.  Secret society.  Luckily, Henry was pretty psyched about the face painting and did not comment on his lack of costume.

They called this "Spider Clown"

They called this “Spider Clown”

Things intensified as we approached Fat Tuesday.  More dress up.  More confetti.  More streamers.

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I don’t know why this surprised me.  I just didn’t realize it was a thing.  Mardi Gras in New Orleans.  That’s a thing.  Carnival in Rio.  That’s a thing.  Carnevale in Venice.  That’s a thing.  But Rome (and apparently many other places in Europe)?  I didn’t know.

Carnival is DEFINITELY a thing in Tuscany.  Coincidentally, our trip to Montepulciano with my mom occurred the weekend before Lent.  A friend helpfully sent me a list of major celebrations in Tuscany, noting that we would be close to Foiano della Chiana, home of the oldest carnival celebration in Italy.  We played it by ear.  I wanted a more relaxing trip instead of stuffing everything in.  The hills in Tuscany make distances deceptive.

In the end, we did go.

WHOA.

Adults paid an admission into town (I think 8 euro).  We got there just in time for the confetti cannon.  I KNOW.  Hang on.  Let me set the scene.

It was crowded, but not scary crowded.  I wasn’t worried about being crushed or separated from my group.  Vendors sold bags of confetti and horns.  There were also food vendors galore selling yummy fried things.  You could even get hot wine, but it was not as good as at the German markets.

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The crowd was, shall we say, festive.  I think at least a quarter of the participants were in costume.  Most frequently costumed were kids and groups of bros, although there were some ladies as well.  These were not elaborate historical costumes like you’d see in Venice.  It really just looked like Halloween was happening in February.

It was loud.  Between people shouting and music blaring, you weren’t having an intimate conversation with anyone.

OK, back to the confetti cannon.  In the super old and fancy town hall in the main piazza, revelers lined the balcony, kind of like balconies on Bourbon Street.  We stood to the side of the scrum below.  After a countdown, the confetti guns fired.  These were sort of a letdown.  Just long tubes with some confetti shooting out.  But that was not all.  The group up top rained down confetti as the cannons fired.  Everyone down below threw confetti as well.

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After that stopped, they rained down inflatables.  Nemos.  Spidermans.  Peppa Pigs.  James lost his glasses trying to grab one, but luckily they were recovered before someone could stomp them.

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THEN, they tipped ginormous balls down into the crowd for some serious volleyball action.  It was a little surreal.

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After the crowd dispersed, we went around the corner.  And saw THIS:

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Turns out it was one of three incredibly elaborate floats we saw.  The floats seemed to be part of a very slow moving parade.  Slow moving because the route was in no way cleared and they were sort of just moving through the crowd.  They all had multiple moving pieces, like a bull shaking its head and dolphins leaping.  It was a sight to behold.

No words

No words

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They also had music THUMPING out of the speakers.  Mac was tolerant, but unflappable Henry was flapped.  We backed off and left a little bit later, picking up delicious porchetta sandwiches for the drive home.

When we got home, we found confetti everywhere.  In our shoes.  In our hair.  Somehow in the kids’ diapers.  So, yeah, Carnival.  Definitely a thing here.

3 Weird Things about Italian Day Care

As I mentioned here, our routine has changed recently.  Henry is doing a few hours a week at asilo nido AKA Italian day care for ages 0-3.  (Nido means nest.)  After age 3, kids go to public scuola materna.  A friend here is doing the process for her child.  It involves multiple passwords and secret handshakes and sounds more difficult than college applications.  Luckily, Henry’s asilo covers up to 5 years so we shouldn’t have to change in a few months.

Why did we decide to do this?  Two main reasons.  Number one is for the interaction with other kids.  Henry does get to see friends at least one or two times a week and he has his brother, but we wanted to up the ante.  Henry has been practically tackling other kids at the playground because he wants playmates.  OK, message received.

Second, we wanted to give him a shot at some Italian.  I was previously skeptical, but that kid really is a little sponge.  He’s not getting much of an opportunity to advance his foreign language skills around me.  This way he will at least have a fighting chance.  (Some of his teachers speak English; we didn’t throw him completely in the deep end.)

Although this was not a primary reason, we did want to give me a breather as well.  The jury is still out on whether this is really a break.  Getting out of the house in time for school can be a pain.  Henry is only doing two hours at a time.  Granted, this is two hours more than before, but it isn’t a ton of time away.  And I still have Mac.  But getting out of the house is growing easier, and I’m able to do some things with Mac that I haven’t attempted with both kids.  The idea is that eventually Mac will do a few hours at day care as well, and then I will have no idea what to do with myself.  (“FREEDOM,” William Wallace styles.)

We certainly did not decide to do this for the free helping of illness we’ve all enjoyed.  Once Henry started, I think we were all sick for about a month.  Thankfully, that has evened out (furiously knocking on wood), but I’m holding my breath until the next outbreak.

Henry has been going for about two months.  Sometimes I’m frustrated, but I think it is a positive development overall.  Henry has a new bestie named Isabella.  He has started looking forward to school.  Here are some things that have thrown me for a loop as we’ve been figuring this out.

1) You can park your baby

What Henry is doing is called baby parking.  I’m not translating.  That is what they call it.  Baby parking.  This means you just drop your kid and pay by the hour.

Crazy, right?  Technically, it isn’t as willy nilly as it seems.  They do ask for you to have a general schedule.  But still.  Hourly coverage when you need it.

I can’t see how this would fly in most places because of required teacher to student ratios.  If you don’t know how many kids are showing, how do you know how many teachers need to show up?  I think the answer is either a relaxed or nonexistent ratio law here.  Henry’s asilo claims they have a 1 to 5 ratio.  I’m skeptical.  Obviously, I feel comfortable or I wouldn’t have Henry there, but I don’t think it is 1 to 5 every minute of the day.

This works out great for us.  I only pay for the hours I use.  I came into it thinking I would do 1-2 days a week.  They suggested 4-5 because they think a child thrives more with regularity.  We compromised on 3.  But if I don’t feel like taking him, I don’t.  Yesterday, it poured rain all morning.  I didn’t feel like walking around in the rain.  We didn’t go.  No cost to me.

I prepaid for a bunch of hours and they gave me a sort of punch card.  I mark down as the hours are used.  They claim they are also tracking, but I’d be surprised.  Again, I trust them with my kid, but I don’t think it is the most organized operation.

2)  $$$

Speaking of paying for hours, day care seems so CHEAP here.  The hourly rate is 9 euro.  8 euro if you prepay for 50 hours.  7 euro if you prepay for 100 hours.  You can guess what we did.

But the full-time rate also seems super cheap.  Looking at this day care and other local ones, full time care is in the $400 – 700/month ballpark.  That is 1/3 to 1/2 what we paid in DC.  And Henry’s day care has an organic chef on-site, something ours did NOT have back home.  So this could be considered pricey in other parts of the US, but it is a steal compared to DC prices.

3)  Stairs, the bane of my existence

After about a month, Henry’s asilo moved to a new location.  Everyone raved about the new place.  Bigger!  Better courtyard!  So much light!  And the building is lovely, but we went from a scenario where I could walk my stroller in and park it under a covered pavilion to STAIRS.  Not just a few stairs.  A lot of stairs.

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These are no-way-around these stairs.  You get buzzed in off the street, and there is a little landing.  Then you have 8 stairs to get down to get inside.  I end up cramming my stroller to the side of the landing beside some other strollers.  Unloading both kids.  Schlepping down the stairs.  Repeat in reverse for pickup.  It’s a huge pain.

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The stairs mystify me.  More than 90% of the patrons here walk and drop their kids by stroller.  How are people not up in arms?  A friend tells me that most places have stairs.  Just because of the older buildings.  All the day cares have it so no one complains.  They are just used to it and deal with it.  The vast majority of people I see also seem to be dropping only one kid.  I’m sure that helps.  Me with the spaghetti noodle arms though, I’m not making it up and down the stairs with a the double stroller.  I would like one ramp, please.

There are other differences from DC, like having to change Henry to inside shoes when we get there, but nothing earth-shattering.  The teachers seems positive, energetic, and excited about kids.  That’s probably the number one thing I look for.

Anything else you are curious about? 

Psst.  Want more differences?  Differences around the house here.  Differences on lifestyle here.  Differences on starting solids here

So what else can you do in Munich?

Are you sick of hearing about Munich yet?  I mean, it’s only been three months since our trip.  You’d think I would have run out of stuff to talk about.  Well, you’d be right.  This is officially the LAST Munich post.  Until the next one.  Nononono.  This is the last.  #orisit? #yesyesitis

So you know we journeyed primarily for the markets, but we knew Munich had plenty of other things to see.  I also knew that we would need to brave more inside things than usual, given the icy temps.  Usually, outside is our friend.  Just turn Henry loose and let him kick a rock.  But this time I knew we needed a game plan for all things indoors.

So, should you find yourself in Munich, with or without kids, here are some things to do when you aren’t enjoying the beer and bratwurst.

1. BMW Welt

This was a HUGE hit with the kids.  And by kids, I mean Henry.  This futuristic building showcases very pricy cars and motorcycles that you can climb all over.  And then try to persuade your toddler to climb OUT of.  Poor James.  He still recounts the stink eye he received from a line of grown men upon trying to extricate Henry from the $100,000 car so they could have their turn.

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It was easy to get to, just a few stops on the metro.  Once you exit the metro, you’re there.  You are dangerously close to the Olympic Stadium if you’d like to check that out as well.  We looked over at it, but did not venture that way.  It was cold, ya’ll.

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You can also visit the BMW Museum across the street.  But that costs money.  Oh, did I not mention?  The BMW Welt is FREE.  That’s right.  Hours of entertainment for the price of a metro ticket.

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This place was also good for a family.  They have a changing room downstairs (like a family bathroom minus the toilet).  They also have large lockers where you can stash your gear, free of charge.  There is a restaurant if you need a pick-me-up.  And there is even a little play area with a few toys.

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I was a little meh because cars aren’t really my thing, but I got a kick out of seeing Henry’s excitement.  They had a stunt motorcycle demonstration while we were there.  I will admit that was pretty cool.  Henry still talks about that time we saw a moto drive up and down the stairs.

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For kid-friendliness and overall enjoyment of the experience, I give it five Breadstick Macs.

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2. The Residenz

We didn’t make it to Nymphenburg Palace outside of town, but we did make it to the Residenz.  This is where the Wittelsbachs, who basically ran Munich, posted up for many years.

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We paid to see the Residenz Museum, but not the Treasury.   I figured that was as much as we should press our luck with the two destroyers in the fancy castle.

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There is a coat room, but they cautioned us that it would be cold inside.  For the stroller, they asked that we switch ours with one of their inside strollers.  These were actually fancy Maclaren strollers; much nicer than the umbrella stroller we had with us.  Cool, no problem.

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What was a PROBLEM that NO ONE mentioned were the large number of stairs on the tour.  I’m not talking a couple of stairs.  I’m talking flights of stairs, with zero elevator alternative.  It’s fine.  I just wish they had given us a heads up.  Like a “hey, please take this fancy stroller, but do be warned that there are oodles of unavoidable stairs.  Toodles!”

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Henry lost it fairly early on during the tour.  He vociferously refused to stay in the stroller.  He wouldn’t walk.  He was doing some screeching.  We even tried putting Mac in the stroller with me wearing Henry as a backpack.  You know what else is on the back of me?  My hair.  That doofus would not stop pulling my hair.  We hustled through the beautiful rooms.  In a way, it was probably better.  This way I just enjoyed the palace ambiance without being worried about reading EVERYTHING.  But it would have been nicer sans the hair pulling.

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We didn’t even try the bathrooms so I can’t report back.  I would not hold out hope for a changing table though.

For us, I give it only two Breadstick Macs.  If you could keep your kids locked down though, you might get more mileage out of this one.

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3. The Viktualienmarkt

This is a daily food market that has been operating for lots and lots of years.  (As you can see, we value historical accuracy around here at Roman Reboot.)  It was conveniently across from our hotel.  We didn’t spend much time there because, you know, super cold outside, but it was nice to walk through.  They supposedly have a biergarten, but I think this is just in warmer weather.

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In sum, we didn’t really take advantage of this one, but it would be a great place to pick up a snack or some provisions if you have a kitchen.

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4. The Schrannenhalle

This is beside the Viktualienmarkt.  It is sort of like taking the Viktualienmarkt party indoors and a little yuppier.  (DC folks: this is basically Union Market.)  They have individual stall/booth like places, but it is a little more restaurant-y.  Like you could grab a glass of wine and a snack kind of a place.  (I looked all over for beer to take back to my hotel.  They did not seem to have that.)

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Important to Henry, the Milka store is downstairs.  For me, Milka will always be inferior to Kinder, but we picked up some pretty tasty treats.

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5.  Asamkirche

On this one, I just really like the backstory.  This is an incredibly over-the-top Rococo church (I guess those are redundant) built by the Asam brothers in the 1700s.  These brother architects built it as a private church to basically show off what all they could do for private clients.

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It is pretty tiny.  You can do the whole thing in less than five minutes.  But interesting (and free!) to pop in if you are by that way.  And you probably will be; Munich downtown is actually pretty small.

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6.  Frauenkirche

This is one that is a part of the Munich skyline, but I think you can skip.  Granted, we didn’t try to climb the tower.  That might have been worth it for the views.  The inside of the church is nice, but nothing super special.

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There is a pretty sweet cenotaph in back.  According to the internets, this is the Cenotaph of Emperor Louis IV by Hans Krumpper.

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7. Ohel Jakob synagogue

This is one you can’t just roll up into (although this site mentions tours), but is impressive to see from the outside.  Rick Steves says it was designed to look like the Wailing Wall in Jerusalem.  According to the internets, “[t]he glass roof represents a tent (Ohel), symbolizing Moses’ 40-year-journey through the desert.”

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It is definitely an interesting, recent addition to downtown Munich.  I’ve never seen anything like it.  And, there is a small playground right outside.  This is the only playground we spotted in all of our trekking around downtown.  BONUS.

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8.  The Glockenspiel

And, last but  not least, Munich’s famous glockenspiel at Marienplatz.  When we were there, shows happened at 11:00 am and noon, but there are more in summer.  We caught the show our first day and our last.  Yay for trip bookends!

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The show is surprisingly involved and it goes on for awhile.  I find it a little boring, but Henry was all about it bout it.  Every time we went by, he commented about when the men would be moving again.  Rick mentions hitting the upper floors of the bookstore across the street for a bird’s eye view.  We tried that, but the windows are small and the view was not great.  I think you are better off on the ground.

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So that’s our trip.  I was bummed that we didn’t make it to the English Garden, but you know, freezing.  Next time, Gadget.

Did we miss your Munich fave?  Did you like these sights?  Isn’t Breadstick Mac adorable?